Pizza and Vino at Zavino

Zavino offers a variety of gluten-free pizzas

By Sara Blank

Although Philly gets a bad rap for its Byzantine liquor laws, we do have many options that don't exist in other large cities. With an abundant number of BYOBs and generous happy hours in town, I've become quite spoiled with our options. Since moving here, I've been in the pursuit of the best gluten-free happy hour the city has to offer, and I would be remiss not to share the love for my favorite restaurant in town.

I've long said to friends that Zavino has the best gluten-free pizza I’ve enjoyed at a restaurant anywhere. With its authentic-tasting crusts, Zavino quickly has become a favorite Center City spot. At Zavino, I don’t feel the need to qualify to my non-gluten-free friends that we're eating gluten-free pizza; the fluffy, flavorful crusts need no justification. Though Zavino does use a shared oven for its gluten-free pizzas, the gluten-free dough is prepared separately and those crusts are baked atop a separate pan to ensure there's no contact with any oven surfaces that would create cross-contamination.

Zavino's baked ricotta gluten-free flatbread

Zavino’s chic yet casual vibe makes it an instant hit among those visiting Center City (112 S. 13th St., 215-732-2400) or University City (3200 Chestnut St., 215-823-6897) at any time, but during happy hour (4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.) the house wines and several specials (including full-sized pizzas) are only $5. With many of the dishes already gluten free, and nearly all of the pizzas able to be modified, I’ve adopted a few standbys.

Most recently, I enjoyed Zavino's margherita pizza and cheesy bread (a baked ricotta flatbread with olive oil for dipping) from the happy-hour menu. Bonus: there is no upcharge for ordering gluten free. Though not on the happy-hour menu, a favorite of mine is the spaghetti squash, mixed with carrots, zucchini, pine nuts and tomato sauce, and topped with shredded provolone cheese. For good measure, we added greens in the form of the chicken paillard salad (sans poultry for a slightly lighter fare), a refreshing arugula-based salad with watermelon radish and thyme vinaigrette.

Spaghetti squash at Zavino

Zavino impresses with its ample selection of gluten-free options, but I’m most enamored with the quality of the food. Between the flavorful food options and welcoming atmosphere, the Center City location has quickly become my undeniable go-to for a night out with friends. The cozy dining room and relaxed outdoor seating on warm-weather days makes Zavino the perfect place to start or end an evening.

While Zavino seems quiet about their breadth of its gluten-free offerings (I was tipped off by a fellow Center City Celiac), I look forward to trying other options during future visits. In the meantime, I will continue to do my part in spreading the word about Zavino's delicious gluten-free pizza and - just as important - its happy hour specials.

Above and Beyond at Bocconcini

By Sara Blank

Bocconcini, a homestyle eatery just off of Philadelphia's Avenue of the Arts (1334 Pine St., 215-545-2482), has embraced what many restaurants ignore, joining its neighbor Giorgio on Pine at the forefront of gluten-free Italian dining in Philadelphia. While other restaurants may add an obligatory gluten-free pasta dish or pizza to their menu without taking precautions to avoid cross contact, Bocconcini is at the other extreme. This makes sense, as the chef-owner of Bocconcini, Crystal Fox, was the one-time chef at Giorgio on Pine, the original gluten-free-before-anyone-else restaurant. In fact, Bocconcini took over the former location of Giorgio Pizza on Pine in 2017.

After settling in during a recent visit, our server's first question was whether we were gluten free. I was dining with two friends - one of whom, like me, maintains a gluten-free diet and another who has no food restrictions. As the server brought out a generous, complimentary plate of gluten-free bread, she helpfully explained that the entire standard menu could be made gluten free.

Our server explained that the seriousness of avoiding cross-contamination was so important that absolutely nothing with gluten was allowed in or near the fryer. Items that went in the fryer, such as meatballs, universally use gluten-free ingredients like breadcrumbs to avoid the possibility of cross-contamination. In unison, my gluten-free friend and I asked, “Why?” wondering if there was Celiac in someone's family or even if the chef herself had an allergy. Refuting these theories, she explained that Fox is passionate about creating a positive and safe experience for everyone who loves gluten-free food.

Bocconcini is ideal for a night on the town regardless of whether one has dietary restrictions. A huge draw for dates or a friends' night out is that Bocconcini is BYOB, which takes the sting out of ordering expensive cocktails and justifies a splurge on pricier menu options or an extra appetizers. Having split two starters and enjoying our own entrées, we walked away paying less than $50 a person - and with leftovers. For appetizers, we enjoyed the fist-sized meatballs smothered in cheese and fried cauliflower served over a fra diavolo sauce. Both dishes were amazing; having meatballs was particularly exciting since most restaurant versions are not gluten free, while the fried cauliflower was surprisingly flavorful - reminiscent of General Tso’s chicken. While the menu offers many delicious-sounding options, my fellow gluten-free diner could not resist ordering penne a la vodka with crab and wilted spinach. Meanwhile, our non-gluten-free companion shared the appetizers but opted for a traditional ravioli dish.

Hopefully, Bocconcini marks a trend in homestyle Italian restaurants creatively exploring options for those with dietary restrictions. In the meantime, grab a couple bottles of wine and stretchable pants for a night out at Bocconcini. You’ll leave healthy, but never hungry

Sara Blank is a 26-year-old agency copywriter living in Center City Philadelphia. She was diagnosed with Celiac Disease at age 18, right when "gluten free" entered the zeitgeist. Follow her on Instagram at @SarBlank.

Family Food

Many of Atlantic City's casino restaurants are tourist traps, but Carmine's isn't one of them. The family-style Italian restaurant is among several at Tropicana's The Quarter (2801 Pacific Ave., 609-572-9300) with gluten-free options. The original Carmine's opened in Manhattan in 1990 and has since expanded to six locations, including Caesars Palace in Las Vegas and The Atlantis at Paradise Island, Bahamas. Carmine's has a number of allergen menus, including one for gluten-free guests.

To celebrate the end of a successful youth baseball tournament in Mays Landing last month, the Gluten Free Philly family headed east to the famous beach town - a city that has lost some luster in recent years but still holds flashes of charm. Even during our Sunday evening off-season visit, there was a bustling crowd waiting to be seated.

The Garden State

If you've been anywhere near a TV or radio the last few months, you couldn't avoid Olive Garden ads for its revamped menu and the surprising mention of gluten-free rotini pasta. Yet while we haven't avoided the Italian chain, we hadn't exactly sought it out - until last week.

Fortune Favors the Bold

Photo courtesy Stella Rossa

As great as Philadelphia restaurants are in accommodating gluten-free diners, there is a dearth of pizza options in the city. (Don't get me started on the lack of a gluten-free soft pretzel in town.)

Leave it to Dave Magrogan to set out to improve that. The owner of Kildare's and Harvest has added a gluten-free menu at his new modern Italian wine bar Stella Rossa (929 Walnut St., 215-644-9074) across from Wills Eye Hospital in Philadelphia. (The original location in Downingtown has been open since August.) The property was once a Marathon Grill and, most recently, Square Peg.

Dishing With ... Peter McAndrews

By Dori Molozanov

Italian and Sicilian cooking may have always been Peter McAndrews’ true calling, but it wasn’t until recent years that he introduced gluten-free dishes into his culinary repertoire.

McAndrews began cooking at an early age and by his teens, he knew the restaurant business was for him. He studied at the Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Piedmont, Italy, and - notwithstanding his Irish heritage - has made his mark on the area's Italian food scene.

In the past six years, McAndrews has opened Modo Mio, Monsu, Paesano’s and Popolino in Philadelphia and La Porta in Media. After his children were diagnosed with Celiac Disease, McAndrews began incorporating gluten-free options into the menus at his trattoria-style restaurants. “Until they were diagnosed, I had no idea how hard it was to find good gluten-free options,” he explains. “It’s important to me that everyone be able to experience the cuisine at my restaurants.”

The idea of gluten-free Italian food may raise some eyebrows to the uninitiated but, explains McAndrews, “the Mediterranean diet is very vegetable forward and lends itself well to gluten-free dining.” McAndrews says because his menu is authentic, it can be tailored to accommodate a special diet. Polenta and risotto, staples of Italian cuisine, are naturally gluten free. When substituting pasta, McAndrews says he prefers corn, as opposed to rice, because of the taste and texture. And his gluten-free pizza, available at his newest restaurant La Porta, is his kids’ favorite.

Natives and tourists hankering for a real Philly trademark need look no further than Paesano’s sandwich shops in Northern Liberties and on 9th Street at the Italian Market. Not only did McAndrews'  "Paesano" - made with beef brisket, horseradish mayo, roasted tomato, pepperoncino, sharp Provolone, and a fried egg - edge out Bobby Flay's version in a Food Network “Throwdown!” he also offers the closest thing to a gluten-free cheesesteak that there is in town. “Folks are very excited to be able to have a Philly favorite [that's] gluten free,” says a proud McAndrews.

Gnocchi on Heaven's Door

Contributor Alice Ozma is a young professional in the publishing industry who works from her home in Old City. She was diagnosed with celiac disease a year ago but also has problems with everything from dairy to fresh fruits and vegetables, which makes life… interesting.

By Alice Ozma

Although the high ceilings, tall chairs, and business suits at Davio’s initially made me feel awkward,  I felt at home when the hostess handed me and my roommate extensive gluten-free menus. I came to the Center City Italian steakhouse (117 S. 17th St., 215-563-4810) to try the pumpkin gnocchi but didn’t call ahead and, unfortunately, it wasn’t in yet. The manager came over to apologize and took my card; when I arrived home an email awaited me, including details about the gnocchi and even the recipe. Impressive.

Our lunch started with a shared basket of bread (for my non-celiac roommate) and potato chips cooked in a dedicated fryer. I mentioned to the server that I couldn't eat the chips since some had touched the bread, so he removed the basket and started from scratch with fresh orders in separate baskets. The chips would have tasted better warm – some were crispy, most a bit soft and oily – but I was happy to have a non-bread option. We ordered figs with gorgonzola and micro greens in a port wine syrup as our appetizer, gnocchi with mushrooms and truffle oil (not on the menu but our server’s suggestion) for me, and the pasta with applewood smoked chicken, spinach, and sun-dried tomatoes in walnut cream for him - all gluten free.

After 20 minutes, our tiny appetizer arrived –four or five figs. It was, however, quite tasty – the cheese balanced the sweet figs,, the greens were fresh, and it was just warm enough to enhance the flavor. After a pause before our entrees, the manager reemerged to explain the special steps the kitchen took to prepare them gluten free, including boiling our own water.

The hearty gnocchi (my roommate noticed slight graininess, though I did not) was complemented nicely by the oil and mushrooms, making it feel deceptively light and airy. His brown-rice pasta held its shape and soaked up the salty yet silky smooth sauce; he remarked that he wouldn’t have known it was gluten free. The smoked chicken, too, was incredibly flavorful. While both dishes were a bit heavy on the pepper, overall we loved them. Paired with an appetizer or dessert, the portions were spot-on.

We followed those dishes with a zesty panna cotta served with fruit, which was so aromatic we smelled it coming. As tropical flavor fans, we loved the pool of flavorful juice at the bottom of the plate. It was wonderfully tangy, and my roommate correctly detected a hint of passionfruit. The panna cotta itself was merely a sponge for this fruity goodness, but it served its purpose well.

Shortly after putting our spoons down we were surprised with warm, gluten-free chocolate cookies, which were the highlight of the meal. They were fluffy and so darkly chocolatey, I couldn’t eat them without sighing. Our server assured me the cookies were available “to-go,” and I’d definitely pick some up for a party or just to scarf down two at a time on the subway.

The bill was the only unpleasantry, totaling $57 before tax and tip. This might have been easier to swallow if the small portion of figs had not cost $13 – and we did not know this, as it was the special. We were full to bursting by the end of the meal, though, so if we returned, I’d skip appetizers. For me, the prices are somewhat inhibitive for lunch, but I’d certainly go for a special occasion, where I could dress up. It’s better suited for that anyway.

In a Fixx

With apologies to distance runners, I imagine that roaming the maze that is an IKEA showroom floor is much like doing a marathon, only more torturous. It helps to load up on carbs in both cases, which is why we stopped at The QUICK FIXX on South Street last weekend before shopping for a bunch of Swedish-designed home goods like the Klappsta, the Klippan, and the Klobo.

The QUICK FIXX (1511 South St., 267-273-1066), which opened the first week of January, serves made-to-order “chef-inspired cuisine at takeout pricing,” as proudly stated on the restaurant’s website. The concept is the brainchild of Matt Levinson, who cut his teeth in hospitality management at A.C.’s Borgata. The eatery offers neighborhood delivery and take-out, but can also seat as many as 16 diners. The attractive interior brick décor and chalkboard menu hanging behind the counter wouldn't be out of place at a restaurant in Manhattan's trendy Meatpacking District.

Pasta Fresca

While the menu is limited by design primarily to pastas, salads and (non-gluten-free) flatbreads, the options are not. Our older son went with the Pasta Fresca from the Chef's Signatures section of the menu ($8), opting for the gluten-free spaghetti tossed in a spicy tomato sauce with a sauteed shrimp add-on ($4 extra), and mixed with cherry tomatoes, diced mozzarella, fresh basil, garlic and oil.

I was intrigued by the Smoky Roman (pasta with cream sauce, smoked bacon, lemon zest and cheese) ($11), but was plenty pleased with the Build-Your-Own gluten-free penne dish ($7), cooked perfectly - not al dente, not mushy. (Gluten-free ravioli also is available.) The pasta was dressed with a tangy tomato gravy (one of many safe sauces) and grilled chicken ($3 extra).

Levinson, who has designs on other locations, is in the process of updating The QUICK FIXX’s printed menus to note every item that’s gluten free. The kitchen, with Charles Reinhardt at the helm, takes precautions in preparing the gluten-free orders separately to avoid cross-contamination.

Have It Your Way

Seared sea scallop with a chickpea crepe, cherries,
ricotta salata and asparagus

Peter McAndrews is a culinary Roman emperor. With Italian BYOB Modo Mio Trattoria and Paesano's sandwich shop in Philadelphia's Northern Liberties, new Silician-influenced Monsù and a second Paesano's in the Italian Market, and a forthcoming brick-oven pizza place in Delaware County, McAndrews has garnered praise from foodies, even earning an appearance on Bobby Flay's Showdown! show on the Food Network.

Part of the essence of Italian cooking is famiglia, and McAndrews hasn't forgotten his. His children have celiac disease, and so the chef makes sure to have gluten-free options available at all of his restaurants.

Fusilli Amatriciana

On a recent Saturday, we were able to score a last-minute, early-evening opening at Modo Mio (161 W. Girard Ave., 215-203-8707), Italian for "my way." It's a small house, with about 40 seats plus some sidewalk tables. Diners can choose from the menu a la carte or can opt for the turista, a four-course meal that appealed to our older son.

Our son's eyes grew wide when our server brought us complimentary gluten-free crostini, drizzled with porcini-infused olive oil atop homemade ricotta cheese. Also on the house was a cheese plate topped with sun-dried tomatoes and chestnut-flavored honey. Our son wasn't left out of the bread brigade either; he fancied several slices of warm, crusty gluten-free dough in the run-up to his meal.

Flourless chocolate torte topped with whipped cream
and strawberries

For his antipasti course, our older one savored a seared jumbo scallop atop a chickpea crepe with asparagus. A plate of gluten-free fusilli came next, crowned with a superb spicy Amatriciana sauce. The flaky branzino (which we had the kitchen debone) followed, sprinkled with capers, basil and chopped tomatoes. Our son finished his tour of Italy with a flourless chocolate torte.

I readily acknowledge that most 10-year-olds are not eating this adventurously, and this restaurant probably isn't a place for younger children. The menu, which McAndrews changes every six to eight weeks, isn't your pedestrian Italian fare. However, adults - and their kids with bold palates - will no doubt enjoy McAndrews' reign over creative Italian cuisine in Philadelphia.



Nominated for the Epikur Writer of the Year Award

That's Amore

We couldn't be more fortunate to live about a five-minute drive from Pasta Pomodoro in Voorhees, New Jersey. The restaurant has won awards at the last two Philadelphia Gluten Free Cooking Sprees, held as part of the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness' Appetite for Awareness. At last year's Cooking Spree, owner/chef Pasquale Masters won the People's Choice award with his gnocchi with marinara sauce, garlic bread and Boston Crème Pie.

The Italian eatery, located in Eagle Plaza on Haddonfield-Berlin Road (Route 561), has long offered an exhaustive gluten-free menu that includes pizza, pasta, garlic bread, entrees, sandwiches and desserts. Our older son is partial to the gluten-free pizza, and he'll usually get an order of garlic bread and dessert to boot.

Chef Masters and co-owner Skip Elmer have their own experiences with food intolerances; Masters has a son who has several food-related allergies and Elmer has celiac disease. As a result, the owners and staff of the restaurant take care to eliminate cross-contamination.

The chef is always creating new gluten-free dishes, so it's likely that a chalkboard special or two will be available during your visit. He might even offer a sneak preview of his entry in this year's Cooking Spree. Even if you don't live in southern New Jersey, a visit to Pasta Pomodoro is well worth the trip.