Raising the Steaks

Butcher and Singer is located at a one-time financial brokerage

Restaurateur Stephen Starr has Philadelphia's gluten-free dining scene covered. For Asian, Buddakan, Pod and Morimoto check that box. For Mexican, there's El Rey. Latin? Alma de Cuba. But how does he handle the classic American steakhouse? Quite well, I can report.

At a recent media dine, my wife and I had the opportunity to enjoy a lovely dinner at Butcher and Singer near Rittenhouse Square (1500 Walnut St., 215-732-4444). The restaurant, named for a former financial brokerage there, is located in the former home of the famed Striped Bass seafood restaurant. With its high ceilings and dim lights, the dining room has the look and feel of a 1940s-style clubhouse. 

Most of the traditional menu carries over to the gluten-free version, with a few exceptions. For starters, I ordered the maple bourbon bacon ($12), a thick slab of Nueske's pork that pulled apart like ribs. My wife's wedge salad ($13) was sprinkled with bacon bits and crumbled blue cheese.

I'm sure it offends the purists, but we enjoy our steaks well done, and the perfectly charred filet mignon ($42) did not disappoint. (The fact that they steaks were marinated in butter didn't hurt either.) My wife opted to get hers Oscar-style, with jumbo lump crab meat on asparagus on top and Bearnaise sauce alongside.

The beef was rivaled, however, by the stuffed hash browns we shared as a side, which, unlike the French fries, don't go in a shared fryer. The pan-fried shredded potatoes ($15) are loaded with Vidalia onion strings, sour cream and even more (cubed) spuds. The salty, savory dish was a worthy accompaniment to our main course.

Despite our best efforts, we couldn't resist the sweet siren call of dessert; we substituted vanilla ice cream for butter pecan in the butterscotch sundae ($7). The kitchen omitted the blondie square from the glass to keep it gluten free.

The drinks menu has a variety of wines and spirits, and even a Green's gluten-free amber ale ($22).

Like those in Chicago, Atlanta and other major cities, steakhouses in Philadelphia have their own styles; Butcher and Singer is classy without being stuffy. Ambience aside, though, it's the food that guests are going for, and it's the food that will bring us back to celebrate a birthday, anniversary or other special occasion.

DISCLOSURE: Starr Restaurants provided us with a complimentary meal. However, the opinions expressed in this review are mine and were not influenced in any way by the compensation.

Gluten-Free Road Trip: Aruba, One Happy Island

Poolside at the Aruba Marriott

The more things change, the more they stay the same. When we honeymooned in Aruba 21 years ago, I could hardly envision that if we returned it would be with kids in tow, let alone at the same hotel. Part of the "A-B-C" island chain off the coast of Venezuela (also comprised of Bonaire and Curacao), Aruba has fabulous year-round weather and is particularly popular given its proximity outside the Caribbean hurricane belt.

We joined many Americans from the Northeast U.S. last week who fled the frigid conditions back home for some sun and relaxation on "One Happy Island," as license plates in Aruba proudly boast. Though American Airlines flies direct from Philadelphia, we left and returned out of Baltimore on Southwest, whose fares were substantially less than American's. Our base was the Aruba Marriott in the Palm Beach resort area, located on the island's northwest coast. The hotel was one of several with small in-house casinos, while water sports are plentiful along the beach and there are off-road adventure tours as well. Mainly, though, Aruba is a place to unwind, whether by sitting poolside or wading in the sea.

The gelateria at the Aruba Marriott
(Photo Credit: Aruba Marriott)

I had emailed the hotel concierge in advance of our trip to see what options were available for our son on site. He referred me to the executive chef, who told me about the gluten-free section at the breakfast buffet, complete with dedicated toaster, cereal, bagels, donuts and muffins. In addition, the Starbucks at the Marriott has gluten-free egg sandwiches and marshmallow rice crispy treats, the pool bar serves salads and burgers with gluten-free buns, and the sundry shop sells gluten-free cookies and chips. There's also an on-premises gelateria with many gluten-free gelatos and sorbets (each flavor has its own scoop).

Grillin' and Chillin'

I think other chain restaurants should take a hint from Brazilian-themed steakhouses like Rodizio Grill, where grown men are clad in traditional South American cowboy garb. The servers at Outback would be dressed like Crocodile Dundee; the staff at Cheeseburger in Paradise looking like they're heading out to a Jimmy Buffett concert after work.

Put aside the kitschy sartorial choices, though, and you'll find that Brazilian steakhouses are some of the most gluten-free-friendly restaurants around. The latest to open in the Philadelphia area is Rodizio Grill's location on restaurant row in the Voorhees Town Center (13109 Town Center Blvd., 856-344-5110).

If you're not familiar with the Brazilian steakhouse concept, diners basically act as air-traffic controllers at the main course. Guests are provided with red light/green light cards, which let the gauchos roaming the dining room with freshly cooked meats on skewers know whether they want more. Like Fogo de Chao in Center City, Rodizio Grill also offers a wide selection of salad bar items (which can be ordered a la carte).

My older son and I checked out the new spot for lunch on a recent Saturday. I was encouraged ahead of our visit because the menu on the restaurant's website notes all of the items that are gluten free, including the popular Brazilian cheese bread known as pao de queijo. Perhaps it was because the restaurant had just opened, but our hostess wasn't familiar with all of the gluten-free items and the on-site menus didn't list them. Instead, she brought us a one-page list of the gluten-free options, which we consulted throughout the meal.

The salad bar options were not as plentiful as those at Fogo, but there were enough to whet our appetite ahead of the forthcoming meat feast - all of the vegetables, fruit, rice, stews, and meats and cheeses are fine for gluten-free diets.

Pacing is a deft skill at Rodizio and its ilk, since you might be too full to sample a item you really want if you, um, beef up too early. Although not all proteins are available at all times, the top sirloin and bacon-wrapped turkey are among the more popular choices for lunch and dinner and were our favorites. Sides included the spongy cheese bread, polenta, and slices of grilled and glazed pineapple.

To counter the salty entrees, we shared a couple scoops of tropical-flavored ice cream. Also gluten free is a caramel flan and a lime pie mousse, complete with a gluten-free cookie.

Like most steakhouses, Rodizio Grill isn't going to be a regular dining spot for most people. It definitely is a place for occasion dining, though, especially if the occasion is enjoying a hearty gluten-free meal.

Gnocchi on Heaven's Door

Contributor Alice Ozma is a young professional in the publishing industry who works from her home in Old City. She was diagnosed with celiac disease a year ago but also has problems with everything from dairy to fresh fruits and vegetables, which makes life… interesting.

By Alice Ozma

Although the high ceilings, tall chairs, and business suits at Davio’s initially made me feel awkward,  I felt at home when the hostess handed me and my roommate extensive gluten-free menus. I came to the Center City Italian steakhouse (117 S. 17th St., 215-563-4810) to try the pumpkin gnocchi but didn’t call ahead and, unfortunately, it wasn’t in yet. The manager came over to apologize and took my card; when I arrived home an email awaited me, including details about the gnocchi and even the recipe. Impressive.

Our lunch started with a shared basket of bread (for my non-celiac roommate) and potato chips cooked in a dedicated fryer. I mentioned to the server that I couldn't eat the chips since some had touched the bread, so he removed the basket and started from scratch with fresh orders in separate baskets. The chips would have tasted better warm – some were crispy, most a bit soft and oily – but I was happy to have a non-bread option. We ordered figs with gorgonzola and micro greens in a port wine syrup as our appetizer, gnocchi with mushrooms and truffle oil (not on the menu but our server’s suggestion) for me, and the pasta with applewood smoked chicken, spinach, and sun-dried tomatoes in walnut cream for him - all gluten free.

After 20 minutes, our tiny appetizer arrived –four or five figs. It was, however, quite tasty – the cheese balanced the sweet figs,, the greens were fresh, and it was just warm enough to enhance the flavor. After a pause before our entrees, the manager reemerged to explain the special steps the kitchen took to prepare them gluten free, including boiling our own water.

The hearty gnocchi (my roommate noticed slight graininess, though I did not) was complemented nicely by the oil and mushrooms, making it feel deceptively light and airy. His brown-rice pasta held its shape and soaked up the salty yet silky smooth sauce; he remarked that he wouldn’t have known it was gluten free. The smoked chicken, too, was incredibly flavorful. While both dishes were a bit heavy on the pepper, overall we loved them. Paired with an appetizer or dessert, the portions were spot-on.

We followed those dishes with a zesty panna cotta served with fruit, which was so aromatic we smelled it coming. As tropical flavor fans, we loved the pool of flavorful juice at the bottom of the plate. It was wonderfully tangy, and my roommate correctly detected a hint of passionfruit. The panna cotta itself was merely a sponge for this fruity goodness, but it served its purpose well.

Shortly after putting our spoons down we were surprised with warm, gluten-free chocolate cookies, which were the highlight of the meal. They were fluffy and so darkly chocolatey, I couldn’t eat them without sighing. Our server assured me the cookies were available “to-go,” and I’d definitely pick some up for a party or just to scarf down two at a time on the subway.

The bill was the only unpleasantry, totaling $57 before tax and tip. This might have been easier to swallow if the small portion of figs had not cost $13 – and we did not know this, as it was the special. We were full to bursting by the end of the meal, though, so if we returned, I’d skip appetizers. For me, the prices are somewhat inhibitive for lunch, but I’d certainly go for a special occasion, where I could dress up. It’s better suited for that anyway.

Gluten-Free Road Trip: Jersey Sure

Harrah's Resort in Atlantic City

My wife and I played the part of empty-nesters the past three weeks, as the boys were at sleepaway camp in the Poconos. Looking for somewhere to relax for a few days, we decided on Atlantic City. We considered booking a couple nights at the brand-new Revel, but considering the premium room prices and the fact that the hotel's private beach is still not finished (and likely won't be until after the summer season), we opted for Harrah's since there were many amenities on site.

We booked a two-night midweek package that included a dining credit for the new Sammy D's casual American restaurant, where we ate after checking in. The restaurants at Harrah's are GREAT-trained through the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness and every chef I spoke with at the resort was familiar with gluten-free food preparation. (Dos Caminos, Luke Palladino and The Steakhouse have their own gluten-free menus.) At Sammy D's, I ordered an egg-white omelet and my wife got the chopped salad. Gluten-free bread is available and the kitchen keeps a dedicated toaster on hand.

The Atlantic City Boardwalk

Walking past the Viking Cooking School inside the resort, my wife - the cook in the family - grabbed a calendar and noticed that a Thai class was scheduled for the day of our departure. Given that my kitchen repertoire consists of making breakfast and quesadillas, she convinced me to sign up with her. I could hardly curb my enthusiasm.

We relaxed for a few hours at the adults-only indoor pool, ringed by hot tubs, cabanas and bars. (On weekend nights, the pool area is converted into a dance club of sorts.)

Curious to see the Revel, we drove over there and ate dinner at Mussel Bar, recommended by a friend of my wife. (Stay tuned for my review.) The building is vast, sleek and - judging from the casino floor - largely empty. I did appreciate that the entire building is non-smoking - a claim no other resort in Atlantic City can make.

The Ventnor Beach

The next morning, we drove downbeach to Ventnor, where we enjoyed breakfast at Hannah G's. The gluten-free menu there includes blueberry pancakes and eggs with quinoa, prepared on a separate grill. Walking on the Ventnor boardwalk after our meal brought back fond childhood memories; I pointed out to my wife where my great-aunt kept a house and where my family rented a condo for a few years. We trekked all the way to the Atlantic Club (the original home of the Golden Nugget in Atlantic City) before walking back to Ventnor on the beach.

We returned to Harrah's pool in the afternoon, and had an easier time snagging lounge chairs than the day before.

Filet Mignon and Baked Potato at The Steakhouse

Harrah's arranged a complimentary dinner at The Steakhouse on the second evening of our stay so that my wife and I could sample the gluten-free fare. We were presented with gluten-free menus that featured cocktails, appetizers and entrees. (The kitchen can also modify other choices to accommodate gluten-free diets.)

Our server brought us a basket of warm gluten-free bread and took our martini and appetizer orders. My wife's chopped salad was dressed with a honey vinaigrette, while the three large poached shrimp I ordered was brightened with a spicy cocktail sauce.

We both ordered the same entree - a center-cut 10-ounce filet and a baked potato side. The meat, seared well, was flavorful and tender. None of the steak sauces are gluten free at present, but the chef told us that he's looking to develop one.

Toffee Cheesecake at The Steakhouse

As with the bread, the kitchen will prepare a special gluten-free dessert with advance notice. On this evening, our server brought out a silky toffee cheesecake, which we chased with espressos.

We arranged for a late checkout the following morning so we could attend the Thai cooking class that would double as lunch. The menu included chicken satay, peanut dipping sauce, Thai cucumber salad, Thai beef salad with lettuce cups, and sticky rice. Thai cuisine is easily adapted to be, if not naturally, gluten free. Gluten-free soy sauce can be used in lieu of the wheat version to marinade the steak; otherwise, none of the other  recipes called for gluten-containing ingredients.

Chicken Satay at the Viking Cooking School

Our class of seven was divided into two groups, with my wife and I sharing a prep table with a gentleman from Indiana. We chopped, diced, prepped, squeezed and mixed the various ingredients and, after doing so, I appreciated the amount of time and work it takes to prepare a square meal.

The class, led by two Harrah's chefs, ran a little over an hour, and we enjoyed the fruits of our labor over glasses of Chardonnay. We were even given our very own chef's aprons as souvenirs.

As we checked out of the hotel, my wife remarked that she was impressed with my newfound cooking skills. While the class gave me a shot of confidence, I'm not quite ready to stray from pouring milk into a cereal bowl.

Capital Fill

With our older son's elementary school commencement, Father's Day and my birthday all within a week of each other, we had many reasons to celebrate with a luxury meal at The Capital Grille in Cherry Hill (2000 Rte. 38, 856-665-5252) on Sunday.

Fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil with
12-year aged Balsamic

When making the reservation, I noted that one member of the party would be eating gluten free. I was impressed that the information was conveyed to Anthony, our server, who reassured us that he'd be in touch with the back of house. After double-checking with the staff in the open kitchen, Anthony let us know that several of the salad dressings and steak sauces were not safe but recommended alternatives.

Bone-in Kona crusted dry aged sirloin

I began the meal with two hearty slices of fresh mozzarella layered atop handsome heirloom tomatoes. Our graduate started with a chopped salad - a mixture of greens and vegetables - that came out the first time adorned with croutons. Anthony realized this as soon as he set the plate down, removed the offending dish, and retrieved a new salad that our son drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and Balsamic vinegar. As he began to eat his appetizer, our older son repeated what I'm sure every 11-year-old says at the dinner table: "Ooh, chickpeas."

Going outside his comfort zone, our younger son enjoyed the seared citrus-glazed salmon, while the lemony breast of chicken confit I had was moist and flavorful. Our older son - ever the adventurer - carved up the medium-well bone-in Kona coffee-crusted dry aged sirloin sans shallot butter; my wife added the Kona rub to her filet mignon. The steaks were perfectly done, and the addition of the coffee flavor to the preparation made them even more piquant.

Flourless chocolate espresso cake

Many of the sides are gluten free, and we shared the creamy Red Bliss mashed potatoes and the Parmesan-and-truffle oil fries.

There was little room left for dessert, but we felt obligated to end the celebratory dinner on a sweet note. My wife and younger son shared scoops of the mango and pineapple sorbets. Our older one and I were more indulgent, cleaning off the plate that once had a dense flourless chocolate espresso cake on it.

There's no doubt that without an expense account to cover the tab, dinner at The Capital Grille makes for an expensive evening. You live only once, though, and this was a meal that was worth the money.

Go Fo Fogo

The immense salad bar notwithstanding, vegetarians may feel a bit uneasy as the gaucho chefs at Center City Philadelphia's Fogo de Chão (1337 Chestnut St., 215-636-9700) breeze through the dining room with cut after cut of barbequed meats. Fogo de Chão (pronounced "fo-go dèe shoun") is a Brazilian churrascaria, or steakhouse, and at a recent weekday lunch, we enjoyed a savory, if at times overwhelming, gluten-free dining experience.

With more than 10 kinds of beef, pork and chicken, a 30-item salad bar, and side dishes of addictive pão de queijo (warm cheese bread), crispy hot polenta, garlic mashed potatoes and caramelized bananas, Fogo is a gluten-free paradise. The amiable manager told which items were not safe - just a few items such as the tabbouleh and bread on the salad bar and the beer-marinated chicken on the main menu. (As selections may vary daily, check with a manager when dining.)

Diners start their meal with offerings from the salad bar, loaded with a variety of vegetables, cheeses and sliced meats. When you return to your table, make sure your dining card (green for "go" and red for "stop") is red-side up, or else you'll never get to finish your starters. Once you flip the disc over, the meats come fast and furious. (So fast that I wasn't able to snap any pictures of my own.) My favorites were the tender filet mignon and the juicy picanha, but there were many others from which to choose.

There are gluten-free dessert options such as flan and crème brûlée for those that somehow still have room left in their stomachs.

Fogo serves lunch Monday through Friday ($32.50 - which includes salad bar and sides - and $22.50 for the salad-bar-only option) and dinner seven days a week ($49.50; $24.50 for salad bar only). Children 5 and under are complimentary, and kids 6 to 10 are half price. There are other locations throughout the United States, in cities such as Baltimore, Washington, D.C., Chicago, Scottsdale, Houston and Miami.