Out In Front

By Sara Blank

There are some activities a card-carrying Celiac learns to do without - activities that are staples of twenty-something culture and the benefits of living in a bustling city with lots of food options. Thankfully, though, there are restaurants in Philadelphia willing to go against the grain. With the safe haven of Snap Custom Pizza's Rittenhouse Square location open until 3 a.m. on weekends and the plentiful selection of gluten-free bagels and a dedicated toaster at Schmear It in University City (admittedly I’ve only ever ordered to my bed via UberEats), gluten-free patrons have more morning and late-night comfort food options.

Front Street Cafe's chicken tenders, mac 'n cheese and fried mozzarella

Add to that list Fishtown's Front Street Cafe (1253 N. Front St., 215-515-3073), where the dinner selections exceeded my expectations of what’s available to gluten-free diners. A plentiful number of dishes on the menu are punctuated by a “GF,” including usually elusive offerings such as mac ‘n’ cheese, chicken tenders, crab cakes and - most important to me - fried mozzarella. I couldn’t remember the last time I was able to order my once-favorite appetizer in a restaurant, and Front Street’s crunchy, dippable fried squares did not disappoint.

A friend and I visited Front Street this past Sunday, when we were excited to order dishes that would help soak up the remnants of St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. We shared the chicken tenders, mac ‘n’ cheese, fried mozzarella and, for good, green measure, the Harvest Salad. The portions were sizeable, but not overwhelming, and definitely flavorful. If you didn't look closely at the menu, you may not have known that these dishes were not only gluten free, but also vegan, with creamy, stretchy cashew cheese in place of standard cheddar and mozzarella.

The Harvest Salad at Front Street Cafe

Our server told us that items marked “GF” were already gluten free, but that other choices, like sandwiches, could be prepared with gluten-free buns or bread. She also let us know that the kitchen utilized a dedicated fryer and that their dedication to gluten-free options (and other restrictions and allergies in general) was an important point of pride for the restaurant. Front Street’s largest selection of gluten-free food is offered on their dinner menu, but they also have options from breakfast to late at night.

Front Street Cafe feels like many different restaurants glued together, yet it doesn't have an identity crisis. The variety ensures that your experience conforms to any occasion, rather than shaping your evening. For candle-lit romantic dinners, groups of friends meeting to enjoy the abundant selection of cocktails at the bar, or a fun meal before a concert at the Fillmore, Front Street is an excellent gluten-free option. Despite its cavernous space (there's outdoor seating in the summer) and out-of-the-way location, Front Street’s popularity makes it an appealing go-to spot, so be sure to snag a reservation. And don't forget to get two orders of the mozzarella squares just in case one member of your party eats all of them when no one else is looking. Hypothetically speaking, of course.

Sara Blank is a 26-year-old agency copywriter living in Center City Philadelphia. She was diagnosed with Celiac Disease at age 18, right when "gluten free" entered the zeitgeist. Follow her on Instagram at @SarBlank. 

Reaping the Harvest

Harvest's gluten-free short rib flatbread

Former chiropractor Dave Magrogan made a splash as a restaurateur with multiple Kildare's Irish Pub locations throughout the Delaware Valley, but his focus these days is on the growing farm-to-table Harvest Seasonal Grill & Wine Bar.

Locally sourced cheese with gluten-free crispbread

 Many menu items at the celiac-friendly Harvest are under 500 calories and utilize mostly local ingredients, changing seasonally. Gluten-free options are listed on the main menu; most salads, appetizers, entrees and desserts fall into this category, either naturally or as modified. The kitchen also serves a variety of gluten-free flatbreads (baked on a separate sheet tray); gluten-free burger buns and mac-and-cheese  are also offered (the macaroni is separately prepared).

Grilled swordfish is among the fish options on the Winter menu

We recently had an excellent experience at the Moorestown location, where my son and I shared the gluten-free braised short rib flatbread (topped with smoked cheddar) and a four-cheese board served with nuts, fruit, house-made jams and gluten-free bread. We also savored bowls of creamy butternut squash soup made with locally sourced honey. My son followed that with a cuminy wood-fire grilled swordfish drizzled with lemon-onion butter. There's even a gluten-free dessert: three-bite peanut butter and chocolate mousse atop flourless chocolate cake.

Harvest rotates gluten-free desserts seasonally

While wine is clearly the backbone of the beverage menu, there is a cider option. Given Harvest's extensive gluten-free food selections, I was disappointed to see Omission - which is gluten-reduced and not truly gluten free - on the beer list, particularly since Magrogan's remaining Kildare's location in Scranton currently stocks three kinds of Glutenberg beer and multiple ciders.

Despite the beer demerit, though, Harvest scored well overall in offering a wide variety of delicious gluten-free fare.

Harvest has six locations in Eastern Pennsylvania (Glen Mills, Radnor, Harrisburg, North Wales, Moosic and the newest in Newtown), along with one in Moorestown, New Jersey and another in Delray Beach, Florida. Future outposts are planned for Lancaster, Pennsylvania and Tampa, Florida.

Minding Your PDQs

For those on a gluten-free diet, these are heady days on the west side of Cherry Hill, New Jersey. Since 2014, Whole Foods and Jules Thin Crust have opened on Kings Highway, Pei Wei, Zinburger and Wegmans are in the shopping center on the former Garden State Park grounds, while MOM's Organic Market and Snap Kitchen are slated to open along Haddonfield Road this fall. Joining the ranks with its grand opening last month is PDQ, a Florida-based fast-casual concept in eight states that is owned by the co-founders of Outback Steakhouse.

PDQ's Cherry Hill location (614 Haddonfield Rd., 856-335-3239) is the chain's second in New Jersey; the first, in Sicklerville, opened last fall. PDQ, which stands for People Dedicated to Quality, specializes in chicken tenders, fries and shakes, all made to order - there's no freezer on the premises.

Not Your Average Restaurant

There are some restaurant chains, like Legal Sea Foods, that "get" the gluten-free diet. I have no hesitation adding Not Your Average Joe's to that list.

The casual, New England-centric Joe's opened two Philadelphia-area outposts within the last year: the first in Glen Mills, and more recently in Ardmore. We had an opportunity to visit the Glen Mills location recently after our younger son finished a weekend baseball tournament nearby.

Joe's from-scratch gluten-free menu is a strong one from top to bottom, from mozzarella bruschetta to beer (in this case, Dogfish Head's Tweason'ale). Upon alerting our server that I was ordering from the gluten-free menu, a runner followed shortly with a basket of hot, fluffy bread and an accompanying olive oil-and-cheese dip. I opted for a well-done Backyard Burger served on a caramelized onion roll, though there were other tempting options like herb-crusted haddock and chicken piccata over penne. (All of the gluten-free orders are prepared in a separate area of the kitchen.)

I passed on dessert, but only because I had exceed my daily carb intake. Next time - and I will be back - I'm saving room for a slice of carrot cake.

Joe's service for gluten-free guests is seamless and confident - a welcome respite from those frequently awkward conversations with servers, managers and chefs. I hope that the chain plans to expand in the region so that more diners can enjoy dining at this exceptional restaurant.

Rockhill & Roll

When legendary Cherry Hill mainstay (and definitely-not-gluten-free) Big John's Steaks and Pizza closed its doors in 2012 after more than 30 years, local foodies were curious to see what would replace the once-popular shop. Nearly two years later, the answer is here.

Rockhill (1800 Rt. 70 E., 856-424-4455) is the concept of Andrew Welder, a Cherry Hill native whose family has long run a sandwich shop in West Chester, Pennsylvania. Welder had the Big John's building torn down and created a sleek, handsome structure in its place. He kept Big John's staples like pizza and cheesesteaks but modernized the menu, developing many celiac-friendly options.

Going to California

CPK's gluten-free BBQ Chicken Pizza

I'm giving credit where credit is due: California Pizza Kitchen has atoned for its botched attempt at gluten-free pizza back in 2011. They licked their wounds, retrenched and now, two years later, not only is the chain preparing those pies so that they're safe for celiacs, the end result is one of the superior gluten-free pizzas I've eaten.

Born to Be WildFlour

WildFlour Bakery & Cafe opened in May 2013

It's a testament to his growing appetite that our 12-year-old can pack away the tons of food given away at the recent gluten-free vendor fair in northern New Jersey and ask to stop for lunch on the way home.

Pumpernickel is sold by the loaf and used for sandwiches

As it happened, traffic was slowing as we approached Exit 8A of the Turnpike. We got off the highway and snaked our way down to Lawrenceville, Mercer County, where WildFlour Bakery & Cafe (2691 Main St., 609-620-1100) was in the middle of a brisk weekend brunch service. Marilyn Besner opened the all-gluten-free eatery - the only one of its kind in southern New Jersey - in May at the former Lawrenceville Inn, and she has maintained the quaint, homespun feel of the former occupant.

Sweet and savory crepes are WildFlour specialties

The fresh-baked breads that Besner and her energetic staff sell by the loaf are used for several cafe items, including grilled cheese. My son raved about his egg salad sandwich on pumpernickel ($6.25), while I loved the Nutella-stuffed crepe ($6.95), sprinkled with berries and topped with vanilla ice cream made by The Bent Spoon in neighboring Princeton. There are also savory versions made with either buckwheat or vegan-friendly rice and lentil. Pancakes ($4.50), salads ($6.95), a soup of the day ($3.25) and smoothies ($6.25) round out the menu. 

A display of delectable sweets at the front counter can't be avoided. WildFlour's assortment includes iced fruit danish ($1.95), a nutty Frangipane tartlette ($4.25), and off-menu items like Linzer cookies and custard flips.

No Crumb Left Behind

By Jason Hewett

Investing in a restaurant dedicated to humble comfort food may not be at the top of hedge-fund manager wish lists, but they might reconsider after eating at Melt Down Grilled Cheese.

Rockin' Robin

By Jason Hewett

The first time I went to Red Robin, I ordered a salad because I didn’t feel like having yet another burger without a bun or, worse, bringing in one of those giant tapioca-flour bricks as a substitute. Since then, Red Robin, with locations across the U.S., has become more aware of gluten-free sensitivity than most restaurants, offering the “go bunless” option - a gourmet burger wrapped with lettuce – as well as a gluten-free bun option for an additional 79 cents. 

It’s impressive enough that Red Robin offers a gluten-free bun option, whereas Five Guys and the big fast-food joints don’t. Most remarkable is that its gluten-free substitute actually works. For the first time in a long time, I enjoyed a hamburger much like a diner without food intolerance might.

The novelty of eating a hamburger on a bun is something to savor for those of us who haven’t done so in years. I still remember the rituals I performed trying to get homemade and store-bought buns soft and moist enough to eat a burger without the bread falling apart in my hands; even when I got it right, it tasted different. Trying to dine out using gluten-free buns was a disaster since no one could prepare them right or the buns would fall apart before they made it to the chef. It was always easier to order without the bun and be the kid awkwardly eating my burger with a fork and knife.

Red Robin’s gluten-free buns, made by Udi’s, look and feel just like conventional buns. You don’t have to be careful with how you hold your burger because the bread is as spongy and absorbent as the wheat version. 

While it doesn’t taste exactly like a conventional bun, it came close, and it’s certainly the closest thing I’ve ever had in a restaurant or at home. My non-gluten-free friends who ate with me recently at a Red Robin in Lancaster, Pa. also ordered their burgers on gluten-free buns. Although they weren’t as enthusiastic about the buns as I was, they still enjoyed their burgers.

My server in Lancaster was extremely knowledgeable about gluten-free needs, while the server at my “home” location in Glasgow, Delaware a bit less so. As soon as I mentioned the gluten-free bun in Lancaster, my server let me know about having the steak fries without the seasoning and the kitchen's separate prep methods. (Red Robin posts an allergen menu at its website that provides more information on gluten-free options, such as identifying salad dressings that don’t contain malt vinegar.)

In providing bun and fry options, Red Robin sets the baseline as to what other burger restaurants should be doing to satisfy gluten-free customers. Gluten-free buns are pricey, so I don’t mind paying a small upcharge for a quality gluten-free meal. For Red Robin to raise the bar, it would ensure that all sauces and dressings were gluten free, but it’s already done a great job catering to a small but growing customer base. The unlimited fries tasted just fine without the signature seasoning and are as good as you’ll get anywhere else.

Delaware native Jason Hewett is an undergraduate at the University of Delaware, where he writes for several student publications. He may be contacted at jhewett@udel.edu.

Fit For a King

Rex 1516's Bacon & Blue Burger

After weeks of traversing the highlands, the king has returned to his castle. Yes, our older son is home after six weeks of sleepaway camp in the Poconos. Since he hadn't been to a restaurant in over a month, I decided to take him out to lunch in Philadelphia after picking him up from the drop-off on the Main Line. He bit when I suggested brunch at Rex 1516 (1516 South St., 267-319-1366).

The restaurant's menus are inspired by Chef Regis Jansen's origins. The Alabama native often uses Southern-style ingredients such as Andouille sausage, okra and grits in his dishes.

King's Gateau

The blackened shrimp and cheesy grits dish on the gluten-free brunch menu was intriguing, but we both opted for the more traditional hamburger. The 8-ounce patty was served on a warm, house-made gluten-free bun that largely stayed intact with each bite. Sandwiched between meat and bread was a sweet onion marmalade, a few half-strips of bacon, and a dollop of pungent blue cheese. We passed on the fries since the fryer had been used earlier in the day for wheat items, but the kitchen prepared a bright side salad.

As good as the burger was, the highlight, prepared by pastry chef Shamus Moriarty, was the King’s Gateau. The flourless chocolate cake, plated on a puddle of chocolate sauce, was enrobed with a peanut butter mousse and topped with a scoop of banana ice cream and homemade peanut brittle.

The bar has a selection of wines, cocktails and - currently - two hard ciders: Ace Apple Cider and Angry Orchard Ginger Apple Cider.

The Sultan of Sling

The Cherry Hill Mall has come a long way from the days when Houlihan's was the signature restaurant. The oldest indoor shopping center east of the Mississippi River is now ringed by eateries of many stripes, from a high-end steakhouse to a faux Caribbean hideaway.

The newest addition to the mix is Bobby's Burger Palace (2000 Route 38, 856-382-7462), serving comfort food from celebrity chef Bobby Flay. The Cherry Hill location is the chain's eighth (a spot in University City opened last year) and sits alongside Seasons 52 and Bahama Breeze.

As customers snake their way through the ordering line, an oversized menu on the wall provides the list of options. Burgers, whether beef, ground turkey or chicken, can be made "topless" - without bread - and fashioned with cheese, vegetables and condiments of choice. Ordering a sandwich "crunchified" nets you kettle-cooked potato chips atop the burger.

Despite pleas from other members of our Philadelphia sports-loving family, our older son went for a medium-well Dallas Burger ($7.75), crusted with spices and crowned with coleslaw, Monterey Jack cheese, BBQ sauce and pickles. (Rest assured there is a Philadelphia Burger, made with provolone cheese, grilled onions and hot peppers.) We brought along an Udi's gluten-free burger bun, and he simply ported the ingredients onto the bread. The manager we spoke with assured us that the kitchen is familiar with gluten-free food preparation and takes care to avoid cross-contamination.

The partially open kitchen has three separate fryers, one each for the gluten-free, thin-cut french fries and sweet potato fries ($3.00) and one for onion rings. The sweet potato variety is served with a spicy honey-mustard horseradish sauce, while the old standbys come with a ramekin of creamy fry sauce.

While the Palace also serves up milkshakes to chase the burgers, they're made in the same blenders as malteds, so we stayed away from those.

Seating was at a premium when we went - less than a week after opening day - and given that the food is both tasty and relatively inexpensive, I expect that to be the case for a while. I recommend that if you're in a party of multiple people, at least one group member should stake out a table while others stay behind to place the order.

Let It Rain

Admit it - theme restaurants are kitschy fun, especially for kids. Places like Hard Rock Cafe, Planet Hollywood and Medieval Times serve up overpriced portions of food alongside slices of nostalgia, memorabilia and other eye candy that can keep children occupied while waiting on their meals.

While in Atlantic City over a late summer weekend with the boys, we wanted to try someplace different for dinner without spending outrageous amounts of money at a casino-restaurant. (I'm talking to you, Bobby Flay Steak.) We settled on the Rainforest Cafe (2201 Boardwalk, 609-345-5757), on the Boardwalk adjoining Trump Plaza. I knew that the restaurant didn't have a gluten-free menu, but my wife called ahead and was assured that the kitchen could accommodate dietary requirements.

As the name suggests, Rainforest Cafe is a restaurant that features a faux rain forest, complete with waterfalls, mist, trees and animals - robotic, of course; I doubt the health department would allow real ones to roam the kitchen. A walk-through aquarium separates the lobby from the dining room, where a simulated thunderstorm occurs every half-hour. We were particularly impressed with the ape (or was it an orangutan?) that swung from the branch right above our table.

After being seated, we advised our server of our older son's diet, and the chef soon came out to provide suggestions for ordering. Safe options included many salads, bunless burgers, and several seafood choices.

Our son settled on the Bamba's Barbeque Wrap, a shredded chicken wrap with spicy barbeque sauce and cheese that came with a side of cole slaw. The chef personally brought out the dish to the table, substituting three smaller corn tortillas for a two larger wheat flour wraps. He also prepared a side of french fries in a pan instead of a deep fryer.

We opted not to have dessert, but ice cream is available.

Chain restaurants - and themed ones in particular - can be hit-or-miss in preparing gluten-free meals. It's always nice when we can go to one where special requests are easily handled, even if it's a place where more than just people hang out.

Awesome Adsum

The Philadelphia Gluten-Free Supper Club recently met at Adsum, in the city's Queen Village neighborhood (700 South 5th Street, 267-888-7002). Guest reviewer Adriana Z. shares her thoughts on the meal:

I admittedly visit restaurants way too often, and considering that gluten and I aren’t the best of buddies, I find myself constantly hunting for a place that can accommodate my dietary restriction while still being tasty and inviting. When I hear about the newest haunts, I frequently assume that I won't be able to experience them. Considering this, I was surprised when Matt Levin, Adsum's chef/owner, was quick to welcome our Club into his hip, new space.

Portuguese cockles

We went during the recent Center City District Restaurant Week, which made for a fairly crowded dining room. The chef made special arrangements so that we could enjoy a slightly modified prix fixe menu that was free of gluten. Our server, Jack, was quick to explain the menu to us and answer any questions that we had; namely, our curiosity about the Portuguese cockle appetizer. Before long, we were talking and laughing over the first course. I ordered a romaine salad accompanied by roasted onion, polenta croutons and lemon-thyme dressing. The flavor of the dressing was divine, while the soft croutons provided a nice contrast to the crisp lettuce leaves. I also managed a taste of the cockles from one of my friends at the table. With a hint of lemon and a spicy kick from the accompanying chorizo sausage, they made my taste buds dance with happiness.

Herb risotto

Service of the main course was delayed a bit, but considering the menu was altered and some of the dishes were prepared especially for us, we didn't mind the wait. The majority of the group enjoyed the pork mole with radish salad and lime, and scents of cocoa and chili. I enjoyed the herb risotto with crunchy sweet corn, tarragon and tomatoes. It was creamy (but not too rich) and cooked to perfection.

Chocolate pot de crème

The dessert course was highly anticipated. Save for some ice creams, it’s not often that a gluten-free diner can safely enjoy a dessert straight off of a restaurant menu. We were thrilled to have a choice of crème brûlée or a Manjari chocolate pot de crème. I went with the latter, and when it came out in a tiny glass pot, I was immediately impressed with the presentation. I was expecting a softer chocolate – almost like a pudding – so I was surprised when I had to force my spoon into a thick layer of chocolate topped with a fluffy cream. The unexpected texture didn’t disappoint, and when the fudgy chocolate hit my palate, I was in heaven. It was so rich, but the whipped cream evened out the intense chocolate flavor. Overall, it was the perfect ending to a delicious meal. The crème brûlée was rumored to be just as delicious by one of our supper clubbers, who also took advantage of the wine pairing through her meal.

In the end, our experience at Adsum was stellar. Everyone left full and happy, and was pleased to have been able to enjoy top-notch food from one of Philly’s buzzed-about new restaurants. The conversation was delightful, the food and service were superb, and as individuals with celiac disease or gluten sensitivity, we didn’t once feel as though we were limited or slighted by the offerings. Thank you, Adsum, for a great experience that was unnoticeably gluten free.

A Cure for the Common Meal

Tucked away on the corner of a West Philadelphia intersection, Rx (4443 Spruce Street, 215-222-9590) rests on the fringes of University City. I dined at the New American BYO with five members of the recently formed Gluten-Free Supper Club during last month's three-course, $25 neighborhood "restaurant week."

Elements of the building's former life as an apothecary loom in the relatively small dining area. Without having to check with the kitchen, our server knew off the bat which appetizers and entrees were safe for the diners. Four of the five starters were gluten free, and I savored the creamy vegetable gazpacho. Other options included a beets-and-strawberries plate and two different salads.

Rx's Atlantic Salmon Filet

The aromatic tomato polenta side gave the juicy bone-in organic braised chicken I ordered a Mediterranean flair. Others at the table enjoyed the Atlantic salmon, served perched atop chopped tomato and fennel. Although no one ordered it, the French-style shellfish stew  - with mussels, shrimp and squid in a saffron broth - could have been served sans couscous.

Vanilla Crème Brûlée

Dessert was a treat, with options that included a vanilla crème brûlée, caramel-drizzled rice pudding, buttermilk panna cotta served with locally sourced berries, and a trio of house-made ice creams.

The dinner provided our group with an opportunity to swap stories and experiences in a comfortable setting, one where gluten-free customers can feel assured that both kitchen and staff understand their needs.The meal, like the evening's conversation, was delightful.

Pumping Iron

Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant recently opened its eighth location in the tri-state area, and its first in New Jersey, at the former Pastavino site on Kings Highway in Maple Shade. My family and I recently ate at the chain's newest spot to sample some of the newest gluten-free offerings.

Available during lunch and dinner hours at all of its restaurants, Iron Hill's new gluten-free menu includes over 40 modified dishes, such as Brabant Mussels with white wine, leeks, garlic, parsley, lemon and cream, Voodoo Shrimp with honey barbecue sauce, white rice, sour cream and green onion, Fiery Baked Chipotle Wings, served with blue cheese dressing and vegetable sticks, Grilled Salmon with baby arugula, imported olives, red onion, grape tomatoes, mushrooms, roasted red peppers, feta and balsamic vinaigrette, and Char-Grilled Angus Sirloin with grilled fingerling potatoes, asparagus, sun-dried tomato-portobella mushroom relish.

"We took several Iron Hill favorites and recreated them to make them accessible" for diners on a gluten-free diet, says Dave Anderson, the restaurant's Director of Culinary Training, who created the menu. “We believe it’s critical to offer our guests a wide assortment of delicious food options, regardless of any dietary restrictions that they may have.”

Not only does the chain offer an extensive gluten-free adult menu, but it also has a slate for kids as well. Children get an entree, beverage, and a choice of two sides (or one side and ice cream) for $6.50. The kids' menu lists shrimp and chicken entrees, burgers, breadless sandwiches, seven different side items, and four ice cream flavors.

We started our meal with a large shared plate of the gluten-free Classic Baked Buffalo Wings served with blue cheese and vegetable sticks. The mild chicken wings and drumsticks were surprisingly tasty even though they weren't deep-fried. Both boys ordered off the childrens' gluten-free menu: my older son ordered a bunless cheeseburger with steamed broccoli and my younger one had the broiled shrimp with mashed potatoes, and both slurped down the house-made root beer. They followed dinner with a scoop of ice cream.

Iron Hill clearly has made an effort to appeal to gluten-free guests, and it shows in the large number of menu choices. The restaurants don't yet brew gluten-free beer on the premises, but Redbridge is served in bottles.

In addition to the Maple Shade locale, Iron Hill has Pennsylvania outposts in Lancaster, Media, North Wales, Phoenixville and West Chester and Delaware locations in Newark and Wilmington.