Fette Sau - German for "fat pig" - is a collaboration between Starr and Joe Carroll, who opened the original restaurant in the Williamsburg section of Brooklyn in 2007. Like its northern sister, the Philly outpost has a communal vibe, with a wide bar and picnic tables. The exposed ceiling beams and unfinished walls give the interior a warehouse-like look.
Since it takes some time to prepare each order - slicing the brisket and ribs, for example - diners are encouraged to grab a beverage from the bar. Jack's Cider is on tap and there are also five wines and a wide selection of American whiskeys and bourbons.
With the exception of the baked beans, all of the sides, including the chipotle-buttered smoked corn on the cob that my wife ordered, are gluten free.
There are several non-gluten-free baked goods for dessert, but two that are safe: salted caramels and the toffee-like Hokey Pokey made by Nunu Chocolates, also from Brooklyn.
Is Fette Sau Starr's best effort? Not quite. For my money, the food elsewhere - El Rey comes to mind - is more consistent. But Fette Sau's addition to a revitalized Fishtown makes the restaurant scene there more diverse.